Mai Pokhari, in the Ilam district of eastern Nepal, is a biodiverse corner of the Himalaya where red pandas roam the forests around the tea gardens. It's also where Man Kumar Mukhiya spent 14 years on a single quest: learning to make oolongs in Nepal that could stand beside the great oolongs of Taiwan and China. In peak season he works 16-to-18-hour days at it. This GABA oolong — from the Tagda 78 cultivar, in a heavily oxidized style — is his best-selling tea.

The process is long and precise: hand-plucked leaves wither until they've lost about a third of their moisture, then ferment for 10 to 12 hours, rest in a setting machine to deepen the oxidation, and ferment a second 10 to 12 hours the next day before a high-heat fixing stops the process. The leaves are lightly rolled into pearls and dried for about 20 hours.

In the cup: bright florals — orchid up front — over gooseberry brightness and the deep, delicate sweetness of figs. Complex without being demanding; a tea for adventurous drinkers and oolong lovers alike.

Ingredients: Organic oolong tea (Camellia sinensis).

Brewing: 2g (about 1 tsp) per 8 oz water at 180°F, steep 4 minutes.